Got up around 5 a.m. this morning (sound familiar?). Showered and got ready for the day. When I arrived on deck, we were approaching the Five Fingers Lighthouse. While I ran across this lighthouse in my research, I was not initially impressed, due to the fact that the lighthouse did not have a working light, and that it was being renovated, ergo, nothing to see. I situated myself on the promenade deck and awaited the approaching lighthouse. I was joined by a man, who was traveling with his wife and young boy. He was from the east coast and was experienced with lighthouses and humpback whales of New England. We overheard that the lighthouse was being renovated to become a B&B. I found that utterly romantic, to be in the middle of a large body of water, isolated, alone.
While gazing at the lighthouse, a pod of humpback whales made their distant presence known with their blows. There was a small row boat amongst them, as though a researcher was studying them. We meandered near the lighthouse for a bit, then the captain pressed on.
After breakfast, the morning was spent lounging and relaxing. Shortly after lunch, we arrived in Petersburg. Research stated that Petersburg was an active fishing village. As we disembarked, it was clear that we were in a fishing village. The fragrance in the air was pungent, a personal reminder of days back when my father made canned sardine sandwiches for me. While a bit breath-taking, I thoroughly enjoyed it.
Our included tour was a performance by the Norwegian Dancers, a group of children between ages 8-13, at the Sons of Norway Hall. We were first presented some Norwegian pastries, which were excellent. We then sat at the provided tables and enjoyed the 20 min. presentation. The outfits the children wore were simply delightful, with such lovely detailed embroidering.
After the presentation, those that had selected land excursions were directed to their respective guides. Carol & I decided to explore town. Before leaving the Sons of Norway Hall, we watched as a Stellar Sea Lion busied itself with a selection of fish from nearby fisheries.
Our first stop was a artisan gallery and bookstore. I finally found a small piece of Tlingit artwork that I felt I could afford, while Carol picked up a couple of cookbooks. From there, we made out way into town. Know don’t get me wrong, downtown was literally about 2-3 blocks on each side. Part artisan, part industrial/hardware-ish, obviously for the towns folk. On the way back, we stumbled across “dime store.” Seeing the sign warning no backpacks, I watched Carol’s bag as she explored for goodies. While she was in the store, I was taken back by the cashier’s array of security monitors (tied to at least 8 cameras). A group of adolescents, mainly girls, stood outside. I was further taken back by their conversations, ranging in topics from welfare to pre-natal care and court dates. An 180 degree difference from what is promoted as a quaint, Norwegian-heritage fishing village. This image was further blown away by a couple of kids on the street who asked if a few people, passengers on our ship, where from Canada. When the passengers replied “No,” the kids responded with “whatever.”
We continued our walk back to the ship, stopping at Hammer Slough, a picturesque spot with buildings on pilings over water during high tide, and at a few homes with decorative Norwegian window treatments. We walked past the cruise ship, closer to the ferry pier. Prior to our cruise, I stumbled across a blog post by a chef aboard a Lindblad small ship, who noted that there was a bakery called Emily’s with excellent pastries near the ferry terminal. When we found the bakery, it had already closed for the day. We settled for an iced chai latte at the nearby coffee shack, then boarded our ship.
While the Norwegian heritage aspect of Petersburg is attractive, the reality of this impoverished town was unexpected. However, a real Alaskan experience.
As we pulled away from Petersburg, the rain began to fall. Dinner was served shortly thereafter. I had the Cream of Asparagus soup, caesar salad with shrimp, and Chicken Saltimbocca. Carol had the mushroom quiche. For dessert, a butterscotch creme brulee, with a carmel corn topping.
As the evenings presentation was on what to expect for the next day, we attended in person. Jeff, the naturalist explained that Metlakatla was a native village, with a large Tsimshian community. We were “cautioned” that this community is raw. I wasn’t quite sure what that meant nor what I should expect to experience. Later in the day, we would be visiting Misty Fjord National Monument and pick up a couple of Forest Service Kayak rangers who would provide commentary and guidance during our visit.
1 Comment
September 21, 2008 at 10:48 pm
Hi Dennis,
I’m doing some research to take a cruise in Alaska next summer. I see you’ve taken a couple of cruises. Could I trouble you for some recommendations of cruise lines? My husband and I are outdoor people and would like to fish while there too. We were thinking about a cruise and a rail trip or rent a car and sightsee ourself. Your thoughts if you have time.